Tajikistan is a wonderful, unforgettable country, a place where real adventure is still possible, Travelling in Tajikistan is entertaining, amazing, breathtaking, uplifting, sometimes tiring, sometimes frustrating, very occassionally a little scarey, but never ever dull. There's a bit of bureaucracy to get through before a visit, but once there the officialdom is easy to deal with. The infrastructure for tourists is limited, so you will be roughing it. But the amazing warmth and hospitality of the people more than make up for the absence of creature comforts. All in all, it is an unforgetable experience.
Bluffers guide to Tajik history
8-9th centuries collection of clans/tribes in the Pamir Mountians part of the Persian Samanid dynasty.
10th century onwards invasions by turkic tribes from the West then Mongol tribes from East.
19th century Russian empire expands south and east in to Central Asia.
1850 - 1907 "The Great Game" battle for control and influence of Central Asia by Russian and British Empires - Tajik areas end up under Russian rule.
1917-18 Russian revolution, Tajik areas end up as part of Turkestan (later Uzbekistan) Soviet Socialist Republic.
1924 USSR redraws central asian borders, Tajik state created. Rumour, has it that Stalin had a hand redrawing the borders to ensure that none of the states created would have overly strong national identities or would be viable as independent states outside the Soviet Union. This might explain why the predominatly Tajik cities of Samarkand and Bukhara were left out of the newly created Tajikistan.
Influx of Russians, Some non-sensical industrialisation, e.g. aluminium smelter for a country with no aluminium ore. Russians keep a lid on inter-clan rivalries.
1970s rise of Islamic forces in Afganistan starts to impact Tajikistan.
1991 Collapse of the Soviet Union, Tajikistan declares independence. Former Communist Party wins first election, but the opposition claims vote rigging and occupies the presidential palace.
1992-1997 civil war, Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS), i.e. Russian, forces pitch in. 60,000 deaths. Economy collapses.
1997 peace deal brokered. CIS forces stay on to guard border with Afghanistan
2005 CIS forces withdraw.
Getting there
Turkish Airlines have a once a week flight from Istanbul to Dushanbe on a Thursday.
Tajikistan Airlines has weekly flights from Munich and Istanbul.
If you are cycling the Pamir Highway, the best bet is to return from Bishkek by Turkish Airlines or British Airways.
Visas
Just about everybody needs a Visa for Tajikistan, In Europe, there are embassies in Brussels, Berlin and Vienna. There is no embassy in the UK.
Warning: Visas requirements change regularly, can vary from embassy to embassy, and appear to be interpretted differently by different officials at the aiport. I've tried to make this information as up to date as possible, but I can't gaurantee it's accuracy. Please double check with the nearest Tajik embassy.
From an Embassy
Most natiionalities can get a visa from a Tajik embassy for around $50, without a Letter of Introduction. We got our 30-day tourist Visas in Ankara. It was an easy process and the Consul there is a really charming man. UK citizens should not require a Letter of Introduction (LOI), though you should check this with the embassy you are using. We were asked for a Letter of Support from our embassy. This is just an official letter saying "Please issue Mr & Mrs X with a Visa" . The British embassy charged us about £40 for this. Once we had the Letter of Support, the Consul issued the visa on the spot. If you plead poverty and ask nicely, the Consul may let you get away with just writing a letter of application, i.e. a just a letter from you to the Tajik, embassy asking for a visa. The start and end dates of the Visa are fixed, i.e. you can only enter of leave between those dates. If you turn up early you won't get in. This makes life a little awkward for overland cyclists.
There is no Tajik embassy in Britain, the nearest ones being in Brussels and Vienna. Reports indicate that these embassies provide an efficient service for postal applications
Visas on arrival at the airport
For a time, it was possible to get a visa on arrival at the airport with just a passport and a couple of photos. It appears this facility has been rescinded and to obtain a visa on arrival you must have a Letter of Invitation authorised by the Ministry of Foreign affairs. Allow for a long wait if you use this facility.
Latest News Sept 07 UK Citizens
It has been announced that as from 1st October 2007 UK citizens will no longer be able to get to obtain their Visas by post. Instead, they will have to apply in person at an Embassy. A Letter of Introduction will also be required. It will not be possible for UK citizens to obtain a visa on arrival at Dushanbe airport. This appears to be a tit-for-tat response to the British government imposing a requirement for Tajiks to have biometric data on their passports to obtain UK visas, so hopefully it will be relaxed in due course. Update Jan 08
I recently emailed the Tajik embassy in Vienna. They said that they are able to issue Visas to UK nationals by post (no need to turn up in person), provided they have an LOI. They are also expecting to open and embassy in London this year
GBAO Permit
Ahh...the infamous GBAO permit! To travel within the Pamir region (that's from Khorog to the Kyrgz border), otherwise known as the Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO), you need a special permit from the Ministry of Foreign affairs. You need to ensure that the permit lists the specific areas you are going to visit or state "All Areas".
Our GBAO Permits
As of April 07, the Tajiks are introducing a new system, whereby you can obtain GBAO permit at the same time as you get your visa, for an additional fee of around $20. As yet not all embassies are able to offer this service, so check with the embassy you plan to use. However, Brussels and Vienna are definitely able to do it.
If you are unable to get a permit through an embassy you will have to use the old system, which is to get an agency to obtain the permit for you from Dushanbe. The agency will require a scan of your passport data page and your Tajik visa. Stantours has a good reputation for this service - they take about 5 days and charge around $20. They'll email you a copy of the permit and you can pick up the original in Dushanbe. Other agents that have been recommended include:
Zafar at Tajik Intours email: travelagency@mkf.tj
A guy called Ikbol email: pamir74@mail.ru
Pamirstourism email: pamirstourism@yahoo.com
A chap called Yakshin (Mob: 917 816 566)
If you haven't got a permit by the time you reach Dushanbe, your best bet is to work through one of the above - you need someone who knows the ropes and the right people to speak to.
For travellers coming from Osh, things are a bit more uncertain. Travellers report that it is possible to obtain a GBAO permit on the spot, from the police station in Murgab. However, you may have to talk your way through the Tajik border post at the Kyzyl Art, explaining that your are going to pick up your permit at Murgab. Alternatively, you could get your GBAO permit sent you, or at least a scan of it emailed to you.
OVIR Registration
At some point during your stay, and particularly if you stay in one place for more than three days, you are required to register with OVIR, the foreigners office, and get a stamp in your passport.
In Dushanbe, if you stay in an hotel, they should be able to register you at the hotel, for free. However, we have heard reports that these registrations are not accepted by the security police in Murgab. If you are in a homestay, you will have to go to the OVIR office and do it yourself, a process which can take up to three days and cost $15-25.
We left Dushanbe after two days and chose to register when we got to Khorog about 15 days later. In Khorog it was possible to do it on the spot, it cost about $20 each.
Having said all that, nobody seemed to check for the registration, so it may well be possible to get away without it (NB. This would not be a good idea if your were flying out of the country as it would leave at the mercy of the police at the airport.
Money
The best option is to bring your money in cash Dollars, recent issue notes in good condition. In 2006, it was impossible to cash travellers cheques anywhere in the country. In Dushanbe, there are ATMs that accept Visa/Mastercards at the following locations: the TSUM store, National Bank of Tajikistan, Hotel Tajikistan, Hotel Avesto and a hole in the wall on Rudaki Avenue opposite Lenin Park. Outside of Dushanbe there are no ATMs. Very few, if any, places accept credit card payments.
When we were there (Summer 2006) the exchange rate was 3.3 Tajik Sommani to the Dollar. Prices in Dushanbe were reasonable. I seem to remember paying about 15 Sommani for a light lunch for three people. Outside of Dushanbe, there's not that much to spend your money on, but what there is is very cheap.
Safety and Security
We felt that Tajikistan was a pretty safe place. Certainly no more risky than any of the other places we have visited. Setting aside drug smuggling (see below) the crime rate is very low.
There are alot of official checkpoints. On average we probably went through one a day. Providing your papers are in order, these checks are not a problem. None of the officials ever asked us for any money.
There are a fair number of minefields in the Pyanj valley. These are a bit scary, but not a great risk. The signs are clear and unmistakable. We did worry about unmarked minefields in this area, so we were careful about where we went off road. We only ventured off road,i.e. for the toilet, where it was obvious the locals had already been.
The Pyanj valley is also a major drug smuggling route from Afghanistan. This means there are alot of soldiers about and a large number of checkpoints. As they are not used to tourist, they are just a little bit suspicious.
The only two adverse things that happened to us were:
Someone nicked a pump off our bikes when we left them unattended for a couple of minutes in Khorog.
When we were camping in the Pyanj valley, we were woken in the middle of the night by two armed soldiers who, after checking for drugs, asked us for money (which we didn't give them). The next day we met an officer down the road who led us to believe this pair may have been awol. With hindsight, given it's sensitivity and the number of patrols in the area, this really wasn't a good place to camp.
Maps and Guidebooks
It best to buy the maps and guidebooks you need before coming to Tajikistan.
For the Pamir Highway, cartographer Martin Hausser has produced a very good 1:500,000 map of the Pamirs, its distributed by Gecko Maps and is available from Stanfords.
It is possible to buy some road maps and maps of the Pamirs in Dushanbe - try the stationery shops on Rudaki Avenue. However, the quality is not good.
As we cycled all the way (well, all bar 100km), we are not best qualified to comment on transport. From what we saw there was no scheduled transport on our route. All the "public" transport was either shared taxis or "go when full" mini buses. To be honest, this type of transport looked pretty uncomfortable - alot of people squeezed in to small vehicles.
It is easy to hire a jeep and driver, either through an agency (ACTED, MSDSP, Great Game), or directly with the owner/driver (the bazaaar is usually the best place to find them, but be prepared to negotiate hard). When we hired a mini-bus, we just waited until we saw a vehicle we liked, then negotiated with the driver The going rate is $0.30 to $.50 per km. Typical costs (2006) are Dushanbe to Khorog $150-200, Khorog to Murgab via Wakan: $280-350, Murgab to Osh $160-190.
Other travellers have recommended the following driver, who is based in Dushanbe: Khamrokhon Kholmatov (aka Amro) Tel: 918 7587 53 (Mobile) 2 35 68 97 (Home)
Tajik Airlines operate a Dushanbe-Khorog flight four times a week for $65 one-way. It's a very spectacular flight through the mountains, but it also very weather dependant and cancellations are common.
Accommodation
About Homestays
Homestay is basically Bed and Breakast in a family home. So you get a room and a sleeping mattress and share the family's toilet/bathroom facilities. In Dushanbe and Khorog you'll probably get a western style loo and a shower over a bath. Elsewhere, it will be an earth closet at the bottom of the garden and a bucket of water or a tap. The chances are your host will not speak any english, but this isn't a big problem. The homestays that are supported by one of the NGOs, such as ACTED, META or MSDP, are usually of a very good standard. The rate for a homestay is around. $7-10 per person including breakfast. Addlitional meals, lunch or dinner are usually $1-1.50 per person. The food is generally better than anything you'll get in a cafe or restaurant.
Informal Homestays
The Tajiks are incredibly hospitable, and you will regularly be invited to share a meal and stay the night by complete strangers. This gives you an insight into the lives of the average Tajik and is a very rewarding thing to do. The Tajiks don't make these invitations with any thought of financial reward, but you should make a payment. $5-10 per person per night is about right. They'll refuse to take your money at first, but you should insist, to the extend of forcibly stuffing it in their pocket if need be. These people are very, very poor and it is morally wrong not to pay.
Warning: Bed bugs are a hazard of informal homestays. We stayed with one delightful family, but were bitten to death during the night. After that we took to placing our karrimats on the mattresses and using our sleeping bags rather than our hosts bed clothes.
Dushanbe
In Dushanbe, there's range of hotels and a few homestays. The hotels are generally ex-soviet style and a bit pricey. People we spoke to who had stayed in them weren't that enthusiastic. We stayed in a homestay arranged by the Great Game Company. This cost us $25 per night for two. We liked it - it was comfortable and the family were good fun.
Great Game also has a guesthouse which charges £17.50 (approx $28) - not sure whether this is per double room or per person in a double room. We haven't visited it but it is bound to be of a high standard (the beds are specially imported from Hong kong!).
We have heard a couple of positive reports about the Hotel Dushanbe - a bed in a three bed room is $10 per night, double rooms are $25 upwards. Apparently the shared bathrooms are clean and there is plenty of hot water.
Khorog
The best place to stay in Khorog is the MSDP guesthouse - it looks really nice. If you can, book ahead. Unfortunately, it was full when we were there, so they (MSDP) arranged a homestay for us with one of their staff. This was OK but not brilliant. There are several other guesthouses in Khorog - see the Lonely Planet guide.
A number of travellers have recommended the Pamir Lodge ($8 for bed plus meal).
Jelady
You can stay at the Sanatorium in comfy rooms and enjoy unlimited hot (sulphurous) showers and soak in the hot baths for 10 Sommani person. Meals are on top and are a bit pricey.
Alichur
If you are desperate, it is possible to stay at the Chaikhana at the Eastern end of town, a small building, almost the last on the Murgab road, with a knife and fork painted on it. I believe there is also an ACTED homestay in the village, but I'm not sure where - try asking around for a "Gostinista". Otherwise, I doubt there would be any problem finding an informal homestay.
Murgab
It's a little difficult finding any of the accommodation in Murgab due to the lack of signs. The one place that is sign posted from main road is the ACTED/META compound. Here, they can arrange homestays for you. On your way to the ACTED/META compound you'll pass the Anara Guesthouse (Large "Homestay" sign on the wall) on your left. This is a very good place. It's run by Ibrahim Gambarov, who speaks a little english. His wife is an excellent cook. If you are on a really tight budget, the Hotel Murgab is 5 Sommani per person, but don't expect much.
Karakul
At Karakul the only place to stay is the very cozy Tildahan homestay. It's just off the main road as you come into town from Murgab. This was probably the nicest place we stayed in in Tajikistan.
Food & Drink
The main things to know about eating in Tajikistan are:
It helps if you like greasy, fatty bits of mutton from the scrag end.
Home cooking is almost always better than anything you'll get in a restaurant or cafe
The stable dishes are Laghmann as soup with meat, vegatables and noodles, and Plov a tasty dish of rice and vegetables stewed in stock. Along the way we also had fried Yak meat and onions, and stews of Yak meat, potatos and cabbage. There is also quite a strong Russian influence on the cusine. In general, the food we had in homestays was hearty and tasty.
Bread is mostly in the form of nan bread. One thing to remember is that bread is considered sacred in Central Asia and is never thrown away. You just carry on eating it, no matter how stale it gets, until it is all used up and fresh batch is baked
For breakfast, most Tajiks will just have bread and butter. In homestays you may also get fried eggs, pancakes or milk rice (rice pudding), which is delicious.
Fruit is limited to whatever is in season. While we were there in June/July it was watermelon and apricots. Outside of the Turkish supermarket in Dushanbe, we did not see any citrus fruit at all.
The stable drink is tea or chai and you'll often be asked whether you want green tea or black tea. Coca-cola and Fanta are readily available, as are various Russian fizzy drinks, some of which are quite nice. Mineral water is also easily available, but almost all of it is fizzy. The cartons of fruit juice are very good, particularly the cherry. The bottled bear Baltyka is also good. It comes in different strengths, labelled from one to nine. No.3 is quite weak and a good thirst quencher. No.9 is bloody strong.
Hindsight
The key things we wished we had done differently were:
Made a bigger effort to learn Russian. People were so friendly and so keen to communicate, it was very frustrating not being able to speak the language
Brought more photos from home. The Tajiks are very interested in your family, friends, home town etc, and photos are a good iscebreaker
Brought more small gifts from home. The Tajiks are so generous you really need to be able to reciprocate.
LINKS
Travel Tajikistan Useful information site by the Great Game Co
