Khorog is the start of the Pamir Highway (M41) proper, that runs to Murghab and then on to Osh. However, many travellers, including most cyclists, choose to continue along the Pyanj valley into the Tajik side of the Wakhan Corridor. This gives spectacular views of 7,000m peaks in the Hindu Kush. A road then leads over a pass to join the Pamir Highway roughly about two thirds of the way between Khorog and Murghab. We chose not to do the this "Wakhan Loop", because it is pretty strenuous (cyclists we spoke to who had done it reported the pass was very hard work) and we were worried we would not have enough time left on our Visas. So we set off up the Gunt valley on the Pamir Highway
Gunt Valley
Not so good weather in the Gunt Valley
After a dodgy meal in the bazaar the day before, my stomach was not very well at all as we climbed the first few kilometers out of Khorog. As we pressed on, the weather clouded over and by early afternoon it had started raining. Consequently, when a chap called Aaron invited us to his Pamiri house for tea, we didn't take much persuading. Tea became a late lunch of bouillion (really good for my stomach), then vodka with Aaron's many uncles (not good for the stomach), then dinner, then a bed for the night.
Aaron - a really nice guy
Indiana Barnes, Gunt Valley
Members of the Pamir cycling club
Bad weather brewing up in the Gunt Valley
The sanatorium at Jelady
After three days, we reached the hot springs and Sanatorium at Jelady. We were able to stay the night here, enjoy our first and only hot showers in Tajikistan, and have a good soak in the hot pools.
Pamir Plateau
From Jelady, it was a long climb up the head of the valley and a series of steep switchbacks to the summit of the Koi-Tezek. The higher we climbed the more unstable the weather became, alternating between bright sunshine and heavy showers. On the very rough descent from the pass onto the Pamir plateau we were repeatedly engulfed in violent hailstorms. And Rowena fell off her bike, twice.
Rowena near the top of the Koi Tezek
Summit of the Koi Tezek Pass 4272m (14,000')
A wild evening on the Pamir plateau
The morning after
Pamir Plateau
Tim Barnes cycling the Pamir Highway
By the time we reached Alichur we'd eaten our last Snickers bar and the only things in our food pannier were a mouldy onion and a cupful of rice. So, we were quite relieved to find a small shop and have a meal of fried fish in the village.
There wasn't much to Alichur
Camp near Alichur
From Alichur to Murghab we had a day and half cycling through some very beautiful but very dry mountains. Rowena gets very stressed in deserts so she didn't enjoy this bit much.
