The Totally Knackered Tour

Across Europe and Central Asia by Bicycle 2006

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KYRGYZSTAN 4


Ala Bel to Bishkek

Part 1
Kyzyl Art Pass to Osh
Part 2
Osh to Toktogul
Part 3
Tokotogul to Ala Bel Pass
Part 4
Ala Bel to Bishkek
Country Notes
Our route in Kyrgyzstan - click to enlarge
Tim and Rowena Barnes' route for their cycle tour through Kyrgyzstan

Suusamyr

suusamyr Kyrgyzstan Central Asia cycle tour
Rowena on the track to Suusamyr.
The road to Bishkek goes over the mountains in the background.
From the yurt camp, we carried on down the wide Suusamyr valley until we were at the foot of the Tor Ashuu, the last big pass between us and Bisjkek. We had two or three days in hand, so we decided to turn off and visit Suusamyr village, about 15km down a track.



Suusamyr Kyrgyzstan cycle tour
Suusamyr



In Suusamyr we stayed at the very comfortable homestay of Norimira & Kubanychbek Amankulov. Kubanychbek is highly a highly educated economist fron the soviet era (God knows what he does in Suusamyr, a small farming village) and the homestay seems to be his experiment in free market tourism. Norimira is a great cook. When we asked Kubanychbek how the Kyrgyz economy was doing, he mimed a man slowly waking up from a deep sleep.

Tim had come down with yet another bout of stomach trouble, so we just took it easy for a couple of nights, enjoying Norimira's homecooking.

Norimira & Kubanychbek Amankulov Kyrgyzstan bicycle tour Homestay Suusamyr Tim Barnes Kyrgyzstan bicycle tour
Norimira & Kubanychbek Amankulov Their Homestay

To Bishkek

After two nights in Suusamyr, we retraced our path back to the main road and set off to climb the Tor Ashuu. We camped about two thirds of the way up and reached the tunnel at the top the next day.

Tor Ashuu Kyrgyzstan Cycle tour Tor Ashuu Cycle tour
The road up the Tor Ashuu
(It was alot steeper than it looks)
Rowena entering the tunnel


The tunnel was three kilometres long, narrow and dimly lit. Rowena founf the tunnel quite scary and when she emerged at the other end she had some rather worrying symptoms: a tightness across the chest and tingling down one side of her face, arms and legs. We figured it was either a mild stroke or an axiety attack brought on by the tunnel. Either way, we figured as she was still breathing, the best thing was to get down the pass as quickly as we could. However, worrying about Rowena's symptoms rather took the fun out of the spectacular descent.

Descent from the Tor Ashuu cycle tour kyrgyzstan
The descent from the Tor Ashuu



Tor Ashuu Kyrgyzstan Cycle tour Tor Ashuu bicycle tour Kyrgyzstan
On the descent Less than 100km to Bishkek


A long descent down the beautiful Kara Balta canyon, finally brought us out onto the wide flat agricultural plain of northern Kyrgyzstan. Our last campsite was in a peaceful corner of field next to a cemetary. The next morning we set out for Bishkek. With the prospect of a proper hotel room and a hot shower at the other end, Rowena maintained an absolutely blistering pace for this last 70km and we arrived in Bishkek at around 1pm.

last day Kyrgyzstan bicycle tour Rowena motoring Tim Barnes Kyrgyzstan bicycle tour
Setting off on the last day's pedalling Rowena motoring towards Bishek


Arrival in Bishkek cycle tour kyrgyzstan
End of the tour
Totally knackered in Ala Too Square, Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan


Part 1
Kyzyl Art Pass to Osh
Part 2
Osh to Toktogul
Part 3
Tokotogul to Ala Bel Pass
Part 4
Ala Bel to Bishkek
Country Notes


Introduction

France/Belgium

Luxembourg Germany Austria Hungary
Serbia Bulgaria Turkey Tajikistan Kyrgyzstan Equipment


© All text and photos copyright Tim Barnes 2006