Dimitrovograd to Sofia
With it's queues of trucks, bored drivers and dodgy looking men and women trying to sell things (and themselves) to the drivers, the Serbian-Bulgarian border wasn't a place to hang around. Instead we followed the main road up a narrow valley until we were finally able to find a place to camp.
On the road to Sofia
After a good climb to wake us up, it was a pretty pleasant run in to Sofia. The road was in good nick and rolled across the wide open countryside under a clear blue sky.
Getting into Sofia and finding a hotel was a bit of a nightmare. We didn't have a map of a guide book, so after cycling in from the suburbs (miles of awful concrete tower blocks) we spent at least three hours criss-crossing the city trying to find somewhere to stay.
Tip for those that follow: There is a very good "City Info Guide" booklet that lists all the hotels. It seems to be given away free at hotels (we couldn't find a tourist office) and other places. So your best is to find a hotel, any hotel, get a copy of the guide then go find the hotel you want.
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
Sofia
Despite our problems when we arrived, we really liked Sofia. Things we particularly liked were:
The rackety old red trams that clatter their across the city.
The Paris Gallery of contemporary art. This is one of the smallest galleries you'll ever visit, but it's a real gem.
Just wandering around - it's a good city for walking,
Soviet army memorabilia at the flea market.
Statue of Sofia
Bloke found hanging around outside the Opera House
Lost in the Suburbs
Trying to find our way out of Sofia was a nightmare. In an effort to avoid the motorway we got completely lost in the tower block suburbs. We had to resort to map and compas to find a way out. Memo to those that follow: just stay on the motorway until you are out of the city, the Police don't seem to mind.
Sheltering in a petrol station
There were some splendid thunderstorms on the road to Plovdiv and it really bucketed down. Otherwise it was good pedalling through some pretty countryside. As most of the traffic was on the motorway, our road, that went through all the little villages was practically empty.
No traffic but loads of blossom
Cyclability
B
Bulgaria was pretty good on a bike. Most of the through traffic is on the main A1 motorway, which leaves the rest of the roads relatively traffic free. Towards the Turkish border, where the motorway runs out, there are stretches without a hard shoulder which can be a bit hairy with the trucks,
Cake rating
B+
Bulgaria wasn't that good for cakes, with one outstanding exception - a huge slab of chocolate sponge from a bakers in Harmanil. This was a real man size portion that kept me going all day. For this alone it gets a B+.
Accommodation
B
Lots of good wild campsites. The only hotel we stayed was in Sofia, The Plana, which was fine.